Deicing Systems for Outdoor Stairs

One great option for keeping the spacing of snow melting cables consistent throughout an installation is to attach them with zip-ties or wire twists to a framework like a rebar frame or wire mesh.

To make sure that your framework lies flat, it should be attached to a base layer that is 2-3” from the final surface. Make sure to avoid damaging the heating cable when you attach the framework to a base layer.

Tip: For your framework, avoid using a metal mesh that has sharp edges or burrs.

For installations in stairs and ramps that will include handrails, it is strongly recommended that the installer put in pre-sleeves for the posts to avoid as much drilling of the surface as possible.

The heating cable must be routed around these sleeves or posts to avoid any direct contact with them. It is the responsibility of the electrician and the installer to coordinate their efforts so they avoid saw-cutting or drilling through heating cables that are no longer visible beneath the surface.

Note: Avoid allowing the heating cable, or metal framework, from making direct contact with the posts or any other metal fixtures.

As previously mentioned, maintaining the proper spacing of the heating elements is the key to a successful snow melting system.

The heating elements should be attached to the mesh using wire ties to maintain proper depth and spacing. This is also a good time to dry fit your system to make sure everything lines up properly.

Reference your custom WarmlyYours SmartPlan installation plan, provided free with every quotation, so that this process goes smoothly.

Since your project will most likely involve several heated stairs, you’ll need to incorporate the heating cable into the risers between each tread. There are a few different ways to do this.

The example pictured incorporated stone veneer corner pieces. This installer simply cut off the corner of the support block to create a channel for the heating cable.

Another option is to saw-cut a groove in the concrete with a concrete saw or diamond-bladed angle grinder.

The most important thing is that the heating cable is embedded in concrete or mortar. Otherwise, it could overheat and fail.

Care must be taken by the paver installer so the mortar (or other medium) covers the heating element so that no direct contact with the pavers is made.

We recommend that at least 1” (25mm) thick mortar is poured over the heating element, but no more than 1.5” (38mm). If using sand or limestone screenings, cover to an uncompacted depth of 1.5” (38mm), leveled to grade. Avoid dropping pavers into place, as doing so may damage the heating element.

Brick and stone pavers must NOT be any thicker than 2.5” (63.5mm).

The power is carried to each cable by a “cold lead,” which is connected to the heating cable via a manufacturer’s splice.

One of the most common snow melting installation mistakes that people make is leaving this splice, and some of the heating cable, outside of the concrete or sand (sometimes people leave it in the conduit or simply leave it exposed). This can cause the splice, which is half heating element, to overheat and fail.

By simply making sure that the splice is embedded, you’ll ensure that it has an appropriate medium (like concrete, sand, or stone dust) to prevent overheating.