Ask Us Anything Radiant Heating Solutions for the Home

Awesome. Thank you everybody for joining us. Sorry for the technical difficulties. We're still figuring out, hosting on Zoom.

So we're getting this getting this going. So if you have any questions on today's webinar, well, I guess first I should introduce our us, shouldn't I? My name is Lyn. I am a customer service rep here at warmly years, and I'm joined by one of our amazing technical guys.

I'm Scott. Thank you for joining everybody.

Absolutely. Thank you so much for being here. If you have any questions on today's presentation, please feel free to type them, in the chat we don't see them right away, we'll definitely get to them, by the end of the presentation.

So jumping right in, We wanna talk about our floor heating products first, especially our TempZone™ product because this is definitely one of our best sellers and is a very, very popular, floor heating product. So TempZone™ is compatible with most flooring types, tile, stone, hardwood, LVT, nailed wood, things like that.

It's also available in shower floor mats, bench shower bench mats.

So there are lots of different products available. Can you tell us a little bit more, Scott, about what TempZone™ is and when you would use it? Yeah. I know one of our, we always send out questions in advance for people to ask a a request for questions.

And, we did get a question this time before our our webinar actually started up and that's good. And that is can I use, can I heat in showers? And the answer to that is this product that we see on the screen right now is wet location listed. So, yes, you can use it in showers. And, that's what's great about this, and it's very, very versatile.

Depending on how it's installed, it can be used with just about any type of flooring.

And if you're thinking about doing something that's a little bit easier, like, a stretch in carpet application or laminate. We've got a different product for that. It would make it even easier to install. But this thing could be used pretty much wherever.

It's only an eighth of an inch thick, and, it's embedded in three eighths to a half inch of thinset or some leveling. So you really don't have to take that height into a account at all because it's really just embedded in that layer that you're going to be putting down. So, it's it's great product. Water it's waterproof.

It's wet location listed. It can be used to almost anywhere except outside.

Definitely. And, can you actually go back to that last slide, Scott? Looking at this picture, I think this is a good example of two kind of main options you have with TempZone™. You have our turn our cut and turn mats or our loose cable.

And then on the next slide, you'll kind of see the different options for the cable installation. So can you kind of walk through what your choices are when doing a cable installation? Yeah. Cable installations do not require a an under, or a a membrane.

Some some systems out there, the only way that you can install it is using a membrane, but not every floor requires a membrane to be used. So sometimes, there's no use to having that ex added expense And that's why you can use the cable fixing strips and save yourself a lot of money. So we're going to see a little bit later when we look at pricing that you can see.

If you don't need to use a membrane, you can save a lot of money by not doing so. So, you have two different products, two different ways of putting the cable down with the membrane, the Prodeso membrane, or you can use the fixing strips. And the fixing strips, you just put along the perimeter of the the room and you string the cable back and forth in those strips, and then you use that to hold the cables in place because You always wanna make sure that the cables are held in place at the correct spacing. You never wanna overlap them. You don't want them touching each other. Because that will be a problem in the future. So these both of these products are designed to keep those cables spaced the way we want them to be.

Awesome. And then looking at our other floor heating, one of our other floor heating options, we have Environ™. So Environ™ is, going to go under a different types of floor than TempZone™ .

Can you kind of tell us where you would be utilizing the Environ™ product? Yeah. The environment product is not wet location listed. So it's not designed to go in showers. It's, you could put it in the bathroom if you wanted to. But definitely not in a shower. I know some people that have used this with laminate in bathrooms.

The thing is it is not waterproof. It's water resistant, but it's not waterproof like the TempZone™ product is. So it's to be used under carpet in the United States.

Use use it under laminate, or floating engineered wood, you would not use this.

For LVT or any vinyl product.

This product is not attached to anything. It's not glued down and nothing is ever glued or attached to it. It's simply put in a layer like a sandwich, and it floats around. And that's the way the key key thing is this does not use thinset. This is not glued to. This is not glued down onto anything.

Definitely.

It comes in rolls and mats too. So if you wanna do a great big area, you can do it like a big blanket and lay it out. It's it's about the fastest installation you can do. When you're looking to heat a floor. Yeah. It's very, very quick.

So moving on to underlayment, We do get this question a lot of, you know, do I need to insulate underneath or above the floor heating? And the answer is generally on a concrete slab, you want to be insulating with our CeraZrob, which is a synthetic cork underneath the heat. Can you kind of tell us what we're looking at here in this picture and why it shows how important CeraZorb is? Yeah.

What we're doing is we're isolating the heating wire from the concrete. The concrete wants to pull the heat down into the concrete. Well, when it's pulling that heat down into the concrete, The spot you really wanna heat, which is where your feet are, that's the spot that's not getting the heat. So what you wanna do is you wanna put some r value between the concrete slab and the heating wire.

And that's going to make the heat go upward as opposed to downward. And that's why you're putting this in anyway, right? Is you want to make sure that you have nice warm floors. If you take a look at this picture, this was a tile job that was done.

And this particular area, we left out a spot where the CeraZorb was was left out. So you can see that non insulated area in the upper left hand corner. That's where there is no CeraZorb. And see how it's blue there.

That means that the heat that the wire is making is going down into the slab. All the other areas where it says insulated area That's where the heat is coming up. So this was taken with a thermal camera, and you can see the actual difference here. And this isn't after being on for any long amount of time.

This was just after a few minutes. And it's already four degrees warmer than if you don't use it.

So to, a simple explanation is if you want temperatures into the eighties, then you use CeraZorb over concrete. If you're happy with temperatures in the seventies, sometimes the low seventies, which doesn't really feel warm at all, then you're going to be putting that directly on the concrete. That's the amount of difference that it will make. So the r value is there.

A one point five r value. It's only a quarter of an inch thick, six millimeters. And it's very, very light and very easy to install. You just use if you're doing a tile job, you use thinset just like you would to set the tile.

And you can use modified thinset, which is very easy to use, very easy to find. It's at every big box store in the world. You don't need any specialized glue or any specialized adhesive, you simply use modified thinset and that'll do the trick. But it really, really makes a big difference.

Some people do use cork. You can use cork if you have a cork that's rated as an underlayment and not cork that you would put on a bulletin board. There are two different things.

One is real bouncy and the other one isn't. But the thing is if you're going to be using self leveling, you never wanna use cork. You always wanna use CeraZorb because it doesn't absorb any water. And also what's great about it, since it's synthetic, it doesn't harbor or make mold grow.

So it's it's great for wet areas because you don't have to worry about, if you're using cork, you have to worry about mold. If you if you're in that condition somewhere where it's going to be wet, there's a good chance of it being wet. You definitely want the CeraZorb. So it's got a lot of benefits to it.

Yes. Definitely a great product.

And then our last, but not least, floor heating, system is our indoor slab heating. And again, this is available in those cut and turn mats or in the loose cable. And this is a great product if you're going to be doing the concrete floor as the finished floor. So if you're looking at doing a stamps or a polished concrete, something like that, or you're doing a new pour or a new slab, this would be a really great option.

Yeah. If you're pouring a new slab, it's exactly what you can use.

When you're heating a slab, it takes longer. So it's it's gonna be one of those things where it does take longer to heat up. Cause you're heating four or six inches of concrete.

Most of our other systems are heating an inch to an inch and a half on the top surface. So the the thinner the application, the faster it will heat, and usually the warmer it will get. But, we've done many where this has been put into a new concrete slab. The most important thing is if you have a four inch concrete slab, the cable needs to be in the middle of it.

You don't want it laying on the ground. It has to be in the middle because that heat, you want to get to the top surface. So that's the most important thing when you're installing this product is to get it up in the upper half of that, at least an inch and a half deep. But that's the sweet spot for that.

Don't lay the cable down, then pour four or six inches of concrete over the top.

Definitely.

So moving on to some of our what we call comfort heating products. Irradiant panels are a I think just an awesome product. They are really great if you are, you know, not looking at changing the flooring. I know for me, our house has the original hardwood.

I'm not pulling that up to put the to put floor heating underneath, but it definitely can still get cold and radiant panels are a really great option. To give you some of that, again, that really warm, comfortable, radiating heat without having to do a lot of work. So can you kinda tell us how these are installed and what we're looking at here? These are like the sun.

So if you can see, If you put these on the ceiling, the ember flex units can go on the ceiling. The other glass ember units are go on the wall, but these are light enough that they go up on the ceiling. So if you can see it above you and it sees you, it's like the sun. If you can see it, you're going to get warmed by it.

However, if you put it in another room and then you walk through a door, and you can't see it anymore, that heat's not gonna be getting to you. So it's one of those things where these are great if you put them on the ceiling because usually wherever you are in the room, you're going to be able to see them. And as long as you can see them, you're going to feel the heat from them because it's a far infrared heat that actually heats you and then eventually heats the air secondarily. But you can control them, by putting them on a simple switch if you want to.

You can also use a, a thermostat as shown here in this picture to, put on the wall and have it heat the the room for you.

If you have a large room, you may need to put one on one wall and one on the other wall. So you get the whole area to be heated. Like, if you need four Let's say if you had a gigantic room and you put four rating panels on that wall and that wall was seventy feet away, that's not the best application. You'd put one there.

You'd put one over here. You'd put one over there and one on the other side and that would help fill the room because you can get too far away. As the people that live on Pluto. If you're too far away from the sun, it's awful chilly.

Yes. It definitely can be.

So looking at the actual, installation or the wiring for these radiant panels, you'd kind of touched on this Scott You can use a thermostat to connect these. They can be, most can be either plugged in or hardwired.

Is there anything people should be keeping in mind when it comes to the wiring and the setup for radiant panels? No. It's very simple. It's just it's a line voltage unit.

It takes one hundred and twenty volts. So you'll need a line voltage thermostat and that thermostat is different than the one you have powering your furnace. So, we do sell these thermostats and it would heat in the exact same way as as electric floor heating, but instead of having the the heat coming from the floor, it's gonna be coming from the wall or coming from the ceiling. But it's the same sort of idea controlled in the same way.

So you can convert them. You can cut the, the plug off and do a hardwired job or you can just this, this box here, this outlet. You could actually put a, an outlet here a duplex plug and plug it into a duplex receptacle, I should say, and just plug it in there and have this duplex receptacle powered by a thermostat. So there's a lot of different ways you can do it.

You can either put it on a switch or you can put on a thermostat. Both of them you can power remotely. But there is no on and off switch on them.

Yes. Good to know.

Looking at our towel warmers Mac we do have a very wide variety of all electrical heated towel warmers. And at this point, most of our models are dual connect.

Could you kinda tell us what the dual connect models are or what makes them special?

The dual connect units don't use a wall plate. There is no wall plate here that is often associated with things on the wall where you're they get power. Now if you do want a wall plate, then we do have towel warmers that do hook up that way that are hardwired, but these units can either be hardwired or they can be plugged in. They're convertible.

There you make the decision where you put them in. If you're going to plug them in or if you're going to hardwire them. So these are great for people that live in apartments. Who can put holes in their wall, but they can't put new outlets there.

So, the dual connect means that you can either do a cord, a line cord sticking out and plugging it in, or it can be hardwired through this leg. If you don't want to do that, we do have towel warmers that do have a wall plate that you can put over an existing, outlet box or something like that you can use too.

Yes. We have lots of options available for that.

And then another one of our really great bathroom products is our LED mirrors. So we offer four models of these, and they are all what we call our our key series of these. They do come with a touch power button that is it's very flush against the mirror's surface. It's pretty integrated but it is an important feature in these LED mirrors.

Can you kind of tell us how these are controlled with that power button? Yeah. You can, you can hook them up to a light circuit that's that's existent or you can, you can leave it so it's not. So, if you took it directly to power, you just touch that button on the front.

It's just actually just feels your touch and you turn it on or off that way.

So that's what a lot of people do.

Awesome.

Alright. I had to clear my throat there? Nope. All good. I know I think we're all either getting sick or getting over getting sick.

So looking at our countertop heaters, these are, a really great luxury product again for an area that is just or chilly. I think a lot of, you know, stone countertops or overhangs, things like that are going to get really, really cold And this is a simple way to add some extra comfort in those areas.

So we have, four sizes available. They are basically you stick them right on the countertop, and they're good to go. Can you kind of tell us how these are wired or plugged in, like, how they actually work Yeah. They actually, they're actually peel and stick application.

So it's like a giant decal or something like that. And then it sticks to the underside And then all you have to do is you have to get, and it plugs in like a laptop. It's got a power power, box and a a line cord. That line cord would just plug into an outlet.

Usually, people put, like, if it's in an island like this, people will run a hole through the back of the island where the countertop heater is, then put that heat that outlet inside there. So they can plug it in and you don't even see it. All you see, if you get down under there and you look up, you can see where the wire runs into the cabinet and that's it. So it's very, very easy to connect.

You plug it into an existing outlet.

And most people just leave them on all the time because, they do heat slowly. So that's why it's so good for, marble and that sort of stuff. It you don't turn it on. It gets really hot really fast.

It heats up slowly. And because of that, it's best. Usually, most people tell us to just leave it on. It doesn't use a lot of power, and it's a low voltage application.

That's where that transformer comes in, but they're very easy to install. You peel the backing off, you stick it up, and you plug it in, and all of a sudden your counter's one. Easy enough, definitely.

And then our mirror defoggers. So these are, personally, one of my favorite products. I just think they're very cool. It's a really easy, economical way to, again, kind of make your bathroom feel a little bit more like a home spa So these, come ready to install. We have several different shapes. We have round. We have rectangles and different sizes to fit in most mirror types.

Scott, can you kind of tell us what you want to be doing when doing the when using these merity foggers, what you kind of you're looking for or how you wanna install it? Yeah. It's appealing stick again. We're into the big peel and stick thing here because it's just so easy to attach.

So you would attach this peel and stick, heater assembly onto the back of the mirror, and it really, for the best results, it should go on the glass. Because obviously, Amir is glass. It's got silver on one side and it's clear on the other. You'd wanna mount this to the silver side to heat it up from the back.

The thing is this is a one twenty volt system. So you can, put it on your light switch. So when you turn your lights on for your room, this, this unit uses very, very little wattage. So it'll be on whenever your lights are on.

And that way, it'll always be clear.

The thing about that though is it's a one twenty volt system, so it does not go in a shower. It cannot go in a shower.

Is to be somewhere above your sink or somewhere like that. But they're very easy. They just wire into there's a wire that sticks out of the back. And you wire that to your, light light switch and you're ready to go.

Nice and simple. Love it.

So one of the, big things that we offer here at warm leaguers that I think is, what's going to make our products so easy to stall are our smart plans.

So if you send in a drawing of the area you're looking at heating, usually, ideally, from a bird's eye view with really accurate dimensions, as many dimensions as you can, we'll send back a plan that looks something like this. We can usually turn them around within about a stay so we can get them to you very quickly. And as you can see, it's going to give you a lot of information on the installation of your specific product or your specific project with our product in your space. So you can see on this smart plan how it's actually showing, we'll show you where the mat should be starting and ending where the thermostat needs to go as well as how you'll be cutting and turning those mats to fit into that Yes.

So if you take a look at this plan, you see at the bottom, you see a t in a circle. The t in a circle stands for the thermostat. You have to let us know where you want the thermostat because that's where the system will start because you can see here is the triangle. That's the beginning of the roll.

So if you were to put the thermostat over here, We wouldn't put it by the end of the roll. The end is the square. You would wanna put it by the triangle. So if you'd say, hey, you know what?

I don't want the thermostat over here. That looks like it's a doorway. Can we put it over here by the sink? Well, then sure you can put it there, but then this drawing has to redone.

So the roll will start over here. And not finish over here. So you can see that this is role number one. It's got a one in the circle.

It's got the triangle. That means it starts and it runs this way back and forth, back and forth by cutting and turning the wire.

Are cutting and turning the mesh. You never ever cut the wire. You never ever shorten it. If you have too much, give us a call because you can't just cut them out in half and say, okay, we just cut it in half.

We're good. No, you're not. You can't do that. It's a constant wattage product. You cannot remove the resistance wire.

The more resistance you remove, the more amperage you get, and the more amperage you get, the hotter it gets. So the more that you remove the more amperage that you get and all of a sudden you have a system that gets really, really hot. Also, it's what happens when you send a hundred and twenty a math that's a hundred and twenty volts like this one because it tells you right here, one in a circle, one in a circle, t r t one twenty. That means The thermostat has to be fed a hundred and twenty volts, not two forty.

The thermostat doesn't take two forty and convert it into one twenty, or it doesn't do that. It needs if your system is one twenty, you need to be sending a hundred and twenty volts to it.

And if you look real careful, you can see the breaker is called out here at the bottom of the smart plan. That's why they're called smart plans is because they really try to help everybody. Here it tells you what size breaker you need and what voltage it needs to be. And it says non GFI circuit because the GFCI protection is in the thermostat.

So that's where all your information's coming from. If you look over here, it'll tell you how many, how much it cost, operate per hour, what the total lamp draw is, what the total wattage is, what the control is that was quoted, how many watts does it use? All that information is gonna be on plan, and that's just simply coming from you making a sketch and sending it to us. We will give you all this information.

It's free. It doesn't cost you anything, and you'll usually have it with the by the next day. So really there's no really long wait for, oh, I don't wanna send them because then I'm gonna have to wait for two or three weeks for them to do a drawing. No.

It's not like that. You send us that? We usually have the plan back for you, tomorrow.

Yes. Absolutely. Yeah.

And, again, another smart plan showing the cable installation, and this is specifically a cable with that Prudesso underlayment. And, obviously, it looks quite a bit different. Can you kinda tell us what we're looking at here, how to make heads and tails of this? Yeah. It tells us right here what our product is is is roll number one, roll number one is, one hundred and eighty foot cable, tells us what the Emtraw is, tells us what the ohms are supposed to be, and the cold lead, and it shows us where it starts here with the triangle.

It shows us where it ends here with the square.

And it shows you how to route that cable back and forth in the Pradecimal membrane to get it towards the end. If you look here, there is a red dot, The location of the red dot indicates the halfway mark of your cable. So this is a hundred and eighty, hundred and eighty feet. This would be the ninety foot mark. And you can see that if you've used all your cable or you've used the you're getting already the marking, the white spot on your cable, is showing up here. It means that you have the cables too close together. If you have this, the white spot on your tape over here instead of over here, it means you put it too far apart.

So the most important thing that when you're looking at this is is to look at these green numbers.

These green numbers tell you how far away the wire is from the wall because if you don't follow these and see where it says five and a quarter here, If you make this one inch, you're going to be using up more cable. Because you're you're going from this space, you're making, oh, I'm gonna make this space like this. Well, when you start doing this, you start using more cable per run as opposed to this, where it's cable from here to here. So if you change those distances, you'll change your coverage.

So this makes sure that you do the spaced at three point seven five, which is three studs.

And It also tells you how far away these wires go from the wall. Here you can see actually the cable running under the toe kick that that we always want cable under the toe kick, but never under the, the vanity just in the toe kick because you can never put electric heating wire under a permanent fixture. Like a vanity.

Definitely good to know.

And another smart plan with cables. However, this is with are fixing strips, and this is utilizing sleepers, which is often going to be the case if you're doing some kind of nailed hardwood. So can you kind of tell us how that works or how those are compatible? Yeah.

The the nailed hardwood, you're going to ask the manufacturer of your hardwood. How often does it have to have nails in it? What's the nail rate? Is it every six inches?

Is it every eight inches? Is it every foot? Is it every sixteen inches? Whatever that is because that's going to determine the width of these sleepers.

And these sleepers are these blue dots.

Here.

Okay.

So what you do then is once you tell us the distance between these, You then can make the the the wires go back and forth in between them. So we also need to know which way it's going. Like in this drawing, The the wood is going like this.

If it were going like this, the sleepers would have to turn. They always have to be perpendicular.

Because then they can nail in.

So that's what you need to look out for there.

So here are the spacers are twelve inches apart. So that tells us every three inches, we can do four runs of cable, one, two, three, four, and between those, and these sleepers are usually about an inch and a half to two inches thick. And they're three eights of an inch high because what you're going to do is you are going to put these down and you're going to cover them with self leveling to the top of that sleeper.

And that's going to heat that wire. That wire is embedded in self leveling. And then you have a nice flat floor. You have the sleepers at the same height as the self leveling.

So then you've got a nice flat floor for the wood the it right on top of. If you don't get that, if you get a distance between the self leveling and the wood, it can trap heat there because air acts as an insulator. You want that self leveling and you want your wood to sit right on top of that. So that's those are the things we need to know.

Which direction is the wood going?

How often does it need to be nailed and also what the maximum temperature is because you want to adjust that on your thermostat so it never goes above that.

Absolutely.

And last but not least, or actually we have two more. So regard, second to last, but not least, is our smart plan showing the shower heating.

And this really important because it's actually showing if you notice, the shower is on a or is a separate cable. So can you kind of tell us why that would be?

Well, showers are normally thicker than, bathroom floors because you have to slope them down to the drain. So sometimes depending on who's doing your job, it could be two inches, three inches thick at some points, where in the in the regular part of the bathroom, it's only an inch. So that inch high is going to heat much quicker than the three inches of mass. It's just you're heating you get more thermal mass to heat. So, you're going to do that.

Also another benefit is if somebody ever comes in here later and says, you know what? I'm gonna change this drain or we've got a drain problem. I need to get in there and break that drain out and put a new one in. And then you hit the wire.

If you hit the wire and you damage it, you can just say, hey, you know what? We're just gonna leave it alone. The rest of the bathroom works because it's on its own cable. We'll just go ahead and leave this one alone because they've ruined it because they've ripped up the whole thing.

So that's one benefit of you if you ever have trouble with your plumbing, it would behoove you to have two cables. That way if something gets happening, if something happens in that shower, they need to redo it. It doesn't damage the rest of the heat and the rest of the room. You can also put that separate cable on a separate thermostat too to so you heat it up in advance and you heat it up hotter than the rest of the room.

So it gives you more flexibility depending on what you want your, your your system to do.

But that's the difference. Yeah. This is I actually did this bathroom, and this is a curbless shower, curbless shower, and we waterproof the whole thing. We've got a video of this installation on our website. So check that out.

Awesome.

And then looking at Environ™, this is a very similar smart plan to the flex roles or the tempsil and flex roles, and that's because, again, it's the same concept of cutting and turning. So you're, again, going to see exactly how far from the wall you need to be, exactly how far you'll be letting each run go before cutting and turning it. The one main difference here is you can see that around the edges of the room, there's a lot more space. So can you kinda tell us why that perimeter is the way that it is? Yeah. This is done in carpeting in the United States. You can't heat carpeting in Canada.

Unless your local code says you can.

The distance of one foot around the perimeter is for the carpet stretcher. To have something to be able to grab into the carpet without hitting the heating cable. If you did this wall to wall, as soon as that person came in with the the carpet stretcher. There's a pretty good chance that they'd hit the wires and when they're trying to stretch it. So that's why there's always a perimeter around the room to allow the stretcher to get at different angles and have something to grab into and put it over the tack strip. If you didn't do that, you'd be in trouble.

Yes. Definitely. We do come in to run into that somewhat often. Mhmm.

So looking at our thermostat options, you can see that we have four options available currently.

The Inspire Touch is definitely our most popular.

It is a super user friendly interface. It gives you the option to program, all seven days of the week so that you don't have to ever worry about or think about your floor heating. It'll just turn on and off for you as needed. We also have a wifi option for this as well, and the main difference is that that will give you, a weather indicator on the actual thermostat face, as well as the ability to control the flooring system from an app on your phone.

Then we also have the non programmable in Trust. And that's a really great model if you have a space that you're heating seasonally. Maybe you turn it on every winter and you don't turn it off until it gets warm again, or if you have a flooring type that shouldn't have a lot of variation in the temperature. So especially we see this with wood, certain types of wood, they don't want you to have much or any fluctuation in the temperature. So you would to just kind of let this turn on set it and forget it.

We do also offer the enhanced programmable thermostat So can you kind of tell us, Scott, in which situations we'd recommend that be used? The enhances for people that have the old thermostats that have the knob on the front we call them temperature regulators. It's zero to ten, like a volume control. So if you have one of those old controls, that works as a regulator.

It just you turn it up to a certain amount, and it keeps it at that temperature forever. If you want to cool it down, you turn it down, it keeps it at that temperature forever, but you adjust it with a knob. This one is adjusted by up or down, and it simply it it does other things, but the reason why we have it is for people that have the old dials where they need a regulator mode, to replace those. So that's what those are recommended for.

The ntrust, like you said, is a great combination for flooring that doesn't allow setbacks, which means if they if it says maximum temperature of eighty four, and it has to stay at eighty four from when you turn it on to when you turn it off like a hardwood floor.

Hardwood floors are they say no setbacks. You can go up to eighty two, but you can't go eighty two seventy, eighty two seventy, eighty two seventy every day because that that's not what the manufacturer wants. So if they say, hey, there's no setback temperatures, then and usually it's the most expensive floors too, which is kind of weird because you're using the least expensive to control to control the most expensive floors. So, That's a great match for that. That's what those two on the right do.

And just to briefly touch on our options for our radiant crystal options for our thermostats.

We have some of these really, really unique models available, if you'd like to, you know, match your home decor. If you want to make sure that this is, really individualized to your personal taste, we can definitely chat about our really beautiful radiant crystal options available.

So moving on to, some of the tools that we have available to help you plan out your them to make your Heating journey as simple as possible.

We offer an instant quote building tool on our website, and this is available twenty four seven. You can check it out at our website. There's lots of different places on the site where you can access the instant quote builder. And this is going to give you, is to ask you a few questions about your project, answer them as specifically as you can And then from there, it's going to show you the options that you have. And as you can see in the layout or in the picture here. We'll we'll show you a video of how each of those systems is installed and how they work as well as all of the actual electrical spec.

And Scott, can you want to touch on the pricing differences in the systems that we have, up here? Yeah. The the temp zone flex roll, it just rolls out and you cut it and turn it. It's it's a faster application.

Less less labor and and that's why it's the most expensive.

But then the what I like to point out to people is are the bottom two choices. TempZone™ cable with the membrane and TempZone™ cable without the membrane. Remember, we talked about not every single floor needs a membrane. So, the thing is if you, have a choice between this product at eight sixty eight, and you're you have a four that's very solid, doesn't have a lot of deflection.

Doesn't need a membrane, an anti fracture membrane.

You can save yourself about three hundred dollars.

By leaving out the the membrane. So remember, not every single floor needs a membrane. And if it doesn't, then why not get the cable and fix strips to save yourself a bundle of money.

Absolutely.

So our next tool on our website is our design tool and this is really great if you would like to, utilize it to draw up your plan to send in for a smart plan. So this way, if you don't have, you know, an arbitex layout or something like that, you're able to actually you draw your room and customize it on our site. You can add fixtures, things like cabinets, bookshelves, any kind of furniture that you want to be heaving around instead of underneath. All of that can be drawn up and added here and then sent to us for a smart plan.

And then our heat loss calculator is one of my favorite tools. It's a really great way to ensure that the heat that you're putting in is going to give you the result that you're looking for. And Scott, can you kind of tell us a little bit about the science and the math behind the heat loss calculator? If you're thinking of doing a, a floor heating project, as the sole source of heat in a room, you need to know how many btus that room needs to be, warm.

Then you take the BTU supplied by our product and say, the BTU supplied is more than you need. It's going to be plenty. If you have a room that has a a bunch of exterior walls, if you have a room that has a bunch of exterior windows, if you have a a room that has skylights.

If you have a room that's got a, a fireplace.

Any of those things. All those things I named are are at Nx exterior door. Those are all gigantic heat loss items. That means they let heat disappear, which means they let the BT use of leave the room.

Well, you've you've got so many BTs that you're making. And if you put a room that's like a sieve, all those BTUs are just gonna go out. You want a room that has a lot of, or very little heat loss. So a room, you know, that's a huge bathroom with eleven foot ceilings, three exterior walls, giant windows on each wall with skylights in the windows.

That room is probably going to be have too much heat loss to heat. That's why that room is always going to feel cold because your furnace can't keep up with it either. All the heat disappears.

So That room is a lot different than a room that's on the second story above a kitchen, like in your in a in a house with one exterior wall with a little tiny window above a kitchen where the floor is already starting at seventy five degrees or warmer. You don't need as many BTs in that room as you do this giant bathroom with three exterior walls full of windows and skylights. So there are two different rooms. A lot of people can't get that that concept in their in their head is like I put a full role of of heater in this floor. Why is this room still cold? Then you walk into the room and you can see it's like a cathedral. It's like walking into a a giant cathedral that's just cold and it all the heat is going somewhere else.

So that's what the heat loss calculator is going to do. You're going to put in each wall. You're going to put in if in that wall. Is there a window?

If so, what is the size of the window? Is there an exterior door there? Is how high are your ceilings? You're gonna put all that information in there.

Are there skylights up there? How many? And then it'll say, okay, this room needs this many BTs. The system that goes into four can provide that and cover it.

You're good. If it can't, if it's just too much for it to overcome, then you're going to need a secondary source of heat besides that floor. So this is going to tell you right off the bat what you can put in that room. And, you know, you may have a room that takes three thousand BTUs.

And our system will be supplying you twenty eight hundred BTUs.

On the coldest day, it won't be able to keep up. But all your if that's the case, you just buy one of those little area heaters, and there's your extra three hundred btus that you need for that coldest day of the year. So It'll tell you that's what the little graph is over here. It'll say here's what the temperature you want.

Here's the days that it can work and here's the days that it may not work. If you don't have enough heating. So it's very, very good. If you're thinking about sole source of heating, this is the first step you wanna take.

Absolutely.

And that heat loss calculator, usually it includes a general operating cost as well. Correct, Scott? Mhmm. And it'll tell you, you know, it'll work ninety percent of the time. It'll work a hundred percent of the time, all that information. And, yeah, what because it'll tell you what the product is in the floor. What it what it will supply and and what it will cost and then it's it's part of that plan.

Definitely. So then the operating cost calculator is a really great option. If you aren't looking at or not ready to do a full heat loss calculation yet, and you just want a kind of idea of what the system will be costing you to run day in and day out.

It's kind of a common misconception that these are really expensive live to run are really inefficient. And that really isn't true, and you can really see it, playing out here. We have an operating cost calculator for our floor heating. And for our snow melting systems where you can pick the system, the size of it, the energy rates in your area. And then at the bottom, in that daily usage, bar, you can actually play with that slider to see what the system will cost to run per day, per month, per year, depending on the number of hours you're running it.

And the thing is with radiant heat, a lot of peo people that have never used radiant heat and the floor heat, are they think like forced air. Okay. I've gotta I've have a thermostat that pumps out forced air throughout the entire house to keep the entire house warm. This radiant heat, we say put a thermostat in each room that you want radiant heat.

And if there's nobody gonna be in that room that day, don't turn it on. And then what you can do is you can set your thermostat for your main HVAC furnace. You can set it down to sixty five, or you can set it to sixty four. Or whatever and just have if you're in a if you're in the living room from five till nine PM, then you heat the living room.

And then when you're done there, you turn the heat off and you go into the bedroom. Or if you're in the bathroom in the morning, you heat it for the hour or two that you're there and then turn it down. That's the thing is these systems are designed to heat the area when you're in it, when you're not in it. Like if you're in the basement, like if you have radiant floor heating in the basement, but you only have people in your basement two times a year at Christmas into Thanksgiving, there's no need to run at those other three hundred and sixty three days.

Right? So It's it's one thing that to think about is if there's no one there, you don't have to have it on. It's not like a furnace. So you can really save yourself.

And you know what? We're here from five until eight instead of five until nine. I'll change the schedule on my thermostat to I'll shave an hour off of that. And then you can play with that in that slider there at the bottom.

You can change the hours from four hours to three hours or eight hours to seven. And you can see how that will affect your operating costs. So it's really a fantastic tool.

Definitely.

So this is definitely your area of expertise, Scott. Can you kind of tell us what tools you want to have while working on your, floor heating installation.

Yeah. You don't need a lot of specialized tools. You're using scissors. You're using, general things you're gonna have laying around the house, but you are going to need a digital ohmmeter, and you want to buy one that is inexpensive because you want on a dial you wanna be able to set it to two hundred and to twenty k.

You don't wanna go out and buy a five hundred dollar self ranging meter because they are very difficult to use. So buy an inexpensive one that lets you choose your ohms ratings, and you're also going to want a circuit check. You're going to test your product when you get it. With your digital ohmmeter to make sure it matches the value that it should.

And then the day of the installation, you measure it again, make sure everything is good because you don't want to install product that got damaged on the way to your house. It doesn't make any sense. I'm gonna take this product. I've just tested it.

It doesn't work. I'm gonna put it in my floor now. Who who would do that? You know, it just doesn't make any sense.

So you wanna make sure it's good. And the way you test it is you test it the day of the installation You put the circuit check on and then you lay it out on the floor because you do your cuts and turns or you lay it out the cable. And then after you're done laying it out, You disconnect the circuit check. You test it with a digital ohmmeter again.

Make sure your readings match what they were just a few minutes ago. Then you put the circuit check back on and now I can start putting thinset over the top. If that alarm doesn't go off, I'm usually in pretty good shape. I don't need to worry about it.

Then at the end, I'm gonna do my ohms test again.

It should match what I did in the morning. And that way, I know that every step of the way I had a good result.

You must get a digital ohmmeter. Do not get an analog meter with that needle that goes back and forth.

I want this to play in your brain. Every time you think of analog meters. No. No.

No. Do not get an analog meter. They're almost impossible to use. Our forefathers, I don't know how they did anything with the manual analog meter because they were miracle workers.

So thank goodness they did.

And then we do offer a troubleshooting kit. So if there is any issue that comes up, if your product gets damaged, something heavy falls on it, or there's some kind of issue.

We do rent out equipment to help, really get that back up and running. Can you kinda tell us what these fancy tools are and what we're looking at here? Yeah. That's why I'm all dressed up today because I just went out and fixed the floor. So I'm kind of in my fix a floor, outfit today, where somebody had, it's installed the heating cable, but they didn't cover it with thin set. So it overheated.

Our heating wires and temp zone heating wires must all be embedded in thin set. They need to be. That's that's the of the UL listing requirement is a national electric code requirement. It must be embedded in thinset.

And the installer ran it in front of a door under really thick, tile. It's it's more like slate, and they didn't bother to put it in thin set. So it it overheated in that spot or something fell down and and hit it and damaged it like a rock or something. So, we had to find that.

And we fixed it. We used all these tools here. You used the, this gray box here is a high pot. You use it to create a short in the floor, then you heat the floor using the variable AC transformer.

You dial that from zero volts up to a hundred and twenty volts. Usually five, ten, fifteen volts, and that'll heat that short up. And then with the thermal camera that you have down here, you can see where that heat stops is where the short is. And that's the spot where you break up the tile and make your repair.

One of the oldest, stories, incorrect stories in the radiant floor heating business our electricians that go, yep, there's an open circuit here. You're gonna have to rip your entire floor up. It cannot be fixed. And there's nothing further from the truth because I just fixed one two hours ago.

So it's it's and using these exact every single one of these tools that's on this sheet I use today. So That's what they're there for. And, you you may never have to use them. That's a good thing, but they're and they're very expensive.

So most electricians don't have this stuff flaying around. So it's, we rent them out to people who need them. We work with local electricians, because most electricians won't have five thousand dollars of of of equipment to fix a problem they may never see. You know?

So, but you can fix the floor four that isn't functioning correctly can be repaired. It does not need to be ripped up.

Absolutely. I think that's a really great point to hammer home.

And then going on to our snow melting systems, these are very similar to our indoor floor heating, I think Scott, you like to say it's kinda like floor heating on steroids.

This is, going to be a little bit stronger. It's designed to actually warm up you know, driveways, walkways, anything like that, and keep that snow from accumulating.

Yeah. What's really, really strong and really, really big and really, really green?

Shrek.

Well, I don't know if he's as strong as That's pretty good. I didn't even think of him. I was thinking more like the hulk. Is it the hulk green?

Yes. He's like severely on steroids, but, the hulk, this is like hulk heating wire. So it's it does the same thing. It has more watts per linear foot, which means it gets hotter than the stuff that goes in your house.

Remember at the very beginning, we talked about Temestone. It's great for indoors.

This is the stuff that's great for outdoors. So it's, the cable in your house is about three point seven watts per linear foot. This is about twelve watts from the near foot. So you can see that makes a big difference. So, It needs to be embedded in a solid system, which means it cannot go and gravel. You cannot heat a gravel driveway with this. It must be an asphalt.

Or it must be in concrete or it must be under pavers, according to the National Electric Code. Other than that, it works fantastic and it's designed to melt the system, melt the snow out there on your sidewalks or on your, on your patio or wherever you want it to be and driveway.

It's it's either on or off. There's you you can't regulate the temperature of this stuff. So you can't say, hey, I'm gonna put this on my patio and turn it up to eighty. It doesn't do that. It's either on all the way or it's off all the way. So This is great for melting snow.

And then the smart plan, this is actually showing a driveway you worked on. Correct, Scott? Yep. Yep.

This is an asphalt driveway and an asphalt driveway is two pours of asphalt. Don't let an asphalt uh-uh ins installer say just gonna put this on the gravel then we'll cover it with three inches of asphalt. That is incorrect. You don't do it that way.

You put a binder coat down and then you lay the product out onto the binder coat, and then you come and you dump asphalt over the top. You do not use a paving machine over the top. You simply dump asphalt onto the top, and you spread it out, and then you back your way out the driveway. We have a video of this exact driveway.

On our website. And that's how you do that installation. So, if somebody comes up to you and says, hey, you know what? I'm gonna do that one pour.

You're gonna go, okay. Thank you. I'm gonna move on to the next one. Because that's the way you need to do it.

So because it's asphalt, it does have an over temperature sensor, and the over temperature sensor, is required in some states no matter what the surface is.

But it's especially prevalent for asphalt because in the summertime, you don't want the system to come on. If your asphalt is already at eighty degrees, or already, you don't want it to come on because it can turn it to soup.

We've never had anybody complain about that. Because every job that we've quoted has come with this controller that uses this. But I've never seen one turn to soup either, but it's It's required by some code in some states, and otherwise it's just a sec a secondary way to make sure that your system doesn't come on in the winter in the summertime.

We're gonna get to that in just a moment, but just to briefly touch on, we do have lots of options available in terms of how to turn that system on and off whether it's automated or not. So we'll go into all that in just a moment.

And then, these melting cable attachment grid. This is a really great product to help make that installation easier. Can you kind of tell us where it would be used or what we're looking at here? This is great to tack down underneath pavers because then you tack it down. You attach the wire to this, and that holds it in place then you can start putting sand over and then putting your papers on top of it. Because you never ever want the papers to sit directly on the sand.

You want to make sure that these, cables stay nice and flat. That way, you can tack it down at each. Like, if you have a twenty foot square patio, Tack it down in each corner, make it nice and tight, and then run your cable back and forth, then pour your sand and set your pavers. Also, it's very good for people that are putting in, ex using existing concrete stairways, especially in cities where they have exposed concrete, but they wanna put snow melting underneath of a limestone cap. You'll see a lot of these in Chicago. Everybody has one on their stew. Limestone caps limestone stairs with a limestone capped area at the top and a limestone capped area at the bottom.

And what that allows you to do is allows you to screw this into each step and then run your cable back and forth on the step to hold it in place while you're putting mortar over the top and setting those products down into it.

Yeah. That's definitely a big Chicago thing over here. Primary primarily for spacing. It's it's the thing it's there for is to keep your cables spacing the same.

You never want cables to overlap. You never want them to butt up against each other. Because wherever that spot is, they can fail. They can overheat there and prevent fail.

They're supposed to be two and a half at least two and a half inches apart.

And then talking about the controllers.

So you'll want to pick first how you want the system to run or how you plan to be utilizing it day to day, in the winter. So you're going to pick between an automatic control or a manual timer. And can you kind of tell us Scott, what the difference is, why you would want to pick one or the other?

Manual timer. If you're home all the time, like, if you work from home, you can use a manual timer. I'm gonna go turn it it it's starting to snow and you can actually turn on ahead of time so it's hot. So the the pavers are hot or warm.

So when the snow hits, it melts, so this is purely manual. I'm gonna turn it on. I'm gonna turn it off. The may the wifi is a manual control too.

You turn it on with your phone and you turn it off with your phone. If you forget to turn off the Wi Fi switch, you will have a gigantic electric bill because it will stay on and on and on and on especially at the last summer. I mean, the last snow of the year going through the summer, the last thing you wanna be doing is heating up your driveway all summer long. So the wifi is great if you want to turn it on or off with your phone.

Hey, look everybody. I just turned on my control with my phone.

You have to remember to turn it off. What's great about the timer is you set it to ten hours and it ticks down and it turns off. There's no leaving it on by mistake.

All these other units require a sensor. And when that sensor says, hey, it's thirty eight degrees or less and it's snowing or raining, I'm gonna turn the system on. It does that. And then when it stops snowing or stops, it gets above thirty eight degrees.

It'll then go into an after run time where you yeah. Your your snow melting is really two events. It's it's actually snowing event. And then when it quit snowing, it's in the after run event.

It's one thing running and running afterwards.

If you don't run it long enough afterwards, then you're going to have slush or you're not gonna have a nice driveway.

If you've ever been in a big city, we have this thing that used to be called the Sears Tower, It's now the Willis Tower. And if you're ever there after it snows, you can just see steam coming up off of the sidewalk. Any big building downtown. You'll see that.

And that's because those sidewalks are heated and it's not only it. It's already melted the snow. Right? So what you're waiting for it now is you're tee you're turning the water that's left behind into mist and it's dissipating, and you're gonna have a bone dry sidewalk.

That's the idea here. Melt it. Run for a while and get rid of it all and then have it evaporate. So these automatic controls do that.

So that's what's so great about They do that off. You never even have to touch them. You don't do anything. It just it it goes on.

It it it times out, then it finishes, and then it if it snows again, it starts up again. It feels a little bit like magic.

So this is a, pretty in-depth drawing showing and kind of what needs to be mounted indoors versus outdoors.

Scott, so can you kind of tell us what what we're looking at here? And I don't know how in-depth you'd like to go.

Keep it simple.

Love it. This part this part out here, these are two forty volt heating products.

Over here, this stuff is one twenty volts. This stuff is low volts. So that's pretty simple, but what you have is everything to the left here goes inside, which means your breaker panel is indoors, Your relay panel has to be indoors because it's an indoor rated box. It is not rated to sit outside.

If it rains and this is outside, it will be full of rain. It's not designed to be outside. Your controller sits inside. And if you have a remote control override, it'll sit inside too.

Everything to the right is outdoors because you can't put your high temperature limit sensor that goes into slab. It can't be indoors. It has to be outside to work. And your aerial mounted snow snow sensor, which is sitting there waiting for snow to hit it, it has to be able to get hit by snow.

And unless you have a really bad roof in your house, then you're not gonna be getting any snow unless you if if you put that inside. So everything over here needs to be outdoors. Along with the junction boxes, everything to the left needs to be indoors.

And then last but not least, looking at our snow melting sensors. This is what you'll pair with those controls, to automate the system to detect if there's moisture and what the temperature is and to tell the system to turn on and off.

We do also have our over temperature slab sensor that you talked about earlier, Scott, You can see that in the bottom, and that would be great for, you know, if you're using a zone breaker control, if you're using a premium control, the slab sensor is a great option and the aerial sensor, can be purchased separately. So it can also help detect any changes in the atmosphere, you know, and if if it is snowing or if it's not snowing or if it's slush. It'll tell you, or tell the system rather to turn itself on and off as needed.

Yeah. The serial sensor has to be somewhere where snow hits it. We had a call from from a guy today who said my system is not turning on. It is not turning on.

It's snowing and it will not turn on. Why will it not turn on? And then we said, please send us some pictures. We'll see where it is.

Maybe that has something to do with it. Well, his his wall was here outdoors and his sensor was put right here. The snow always fell everywhere, but where the sensor is. So when I tell people, if they're thinking about putting a snow system in, is walk outside after it snows and see where the snow hit and see where it's bare.

Wherever it's bare, you don't want that sensor to be because no snow has ever gonna hit there. And if you don't have any snow there, it's not gonna turn the system on. You need to go somewhere where it's going to get hit by the snow. So the first thing we did, we told this guy, okay.

You have a box that's right up against the wall. You need to make a little l and get that sensor over here out of right up against the wall because it's nothing but trouble when you do that. Oh, I don't want anybody to see it. Well, you have to make a decision.

Do you want your driveway melted Or do you want somebody to go, oh, no. I see somebody's snow sensor. What am I gonna do? I'm gonna call the HOA department.

But really it has to be somewhere where the snow is going to hit it. So ideally the best sensor you can get is one that goes in the slab because that's where the snow melting, you want to be taking place anyway. Right? So if that area is covered with snow and you want it dry, the sensor should ideally sit there.

The problem is that slab sensors that is difficult to remove. It's difficult to replace it if you ever have to. Especially if the person doesn't put it in correctly. So what a lot of people do is they take the aerial sensor because the aerial sensor, if it ever quits ten years down the road, it stops working, you just take it off and put a new one on, and you're golden.

The only maintenance you have to do on a electric snow melting system is every year you clean the top of the sensor with a wet rag.

That's all you have to do because birds love to sit here. And birds love to leave a calling card after they've sat there. And that's the kind of stuff that you wanna clean up because you don't want that to get all clogged because you can see here there's like little cuts in it that allows the that this is heated. Okay?

So when the snow hits it, it melts. And it can make makes a connection between the the ground and this outer pretty this isn't just a pretty design. It's what's called an interdigitated grid. And it means that you has you have two pieces of metal that are separate from each other until the snow melts, and it makes them connect by the water.

And that's what completes the circuit. So these are actually two separate pieces of metal that never touch until the water gets on there. It melts it and then the excess water so it doesn't pull up it lets it run out the drains on the side. So an aerial sensor is much easier to replace, easier to work on, but you have to get it a away from the house.

You can't have it sitting right next door to right next to the side of the house.

Good information to have.

And then we do offer some other, cold weather options. We have a roof and gutter de icing system. We actually have two options for this. We have self regulating where it can be cut to length, or we have our constant wattage system, which is a fixed length, a plug in, super easy kind of plug and play, roof and gutter de icing option.

Roof and gutter de icing is compatible with most roofing materials, and it's a really great way to, help out if you get ice dams and things like that. It'll prevent any kind of damage to your roof. Yeah. So just a quick example, if you have a a steel roof, if you have a steel roof, you have to use self regulating cable, constant wattage cable is not allowed to go on there. So there's a way if there you have a roof, we can heat it. It just depends on, most of the time. It just depends on what type of roof it is depending on which one of these you want.

Self regulating cable. This cable here is the only kind of cable that you can cut to length that we sell. Everything else is constant wattage, but this self regulating cable can be cut anywhere. It's a miracle, product. So that's something that you want to look out for, but that's the big difference between those two.

And then we do also have pipe freeze protection And it's the same kind of concept. We have self regulating and constant wattage systems for this, and they are really great to keep pipes from freezing in the winter.

So again, same kind of concept for this.

So, we talked a lot about our products today, but I do briefly want to chat about, what makes us special or why you'd want to, start heating your home with us. So we, really stand by our products. We offer no nonsense, warrant see. We try to make everything as simple and as easy as possible. We have no restocking fees for any kinds of returns.

And we are radiant experts. We have been in this industry since pretty much the beginning. We've been around well over the years. We have systems that have been running for years and decades, and we really pride ourselves on knowing as much as pop bull about radiance heating. Obviously, Scott is our one of our technical experts. He is phenomenal, and we do offer twenty four seven tech support. So any time of day or night, you can reach someone, you might actually reach Scott himself or one of our other heca experts to help out with any kinds questions or troubleshooting or concerns that you might have.

Because we've been around for so long, we also are, have been the first provide an online tool for project planning. So, again, we try to make it as easy as possible for you to begin kind of planning out your system and knowing exactly what going to be getting into.

We have those twenty four hour turnaround on smart plans or floor plans, and you'll also get a dedicated account manager sure, whether you're a trade pro or a homeowner, you're gonna have someone that you can talk to directly to make sure that all your questions are answered.

Yeah. Those tools that we talked about to to fix the due repairs, those tools we make available to pretty much anybody who needs them.

We have, I don't know, a over a dozen sets. They're very expensive, but and we don't make any money running them out. It's just simply the cost of getting them back and fixing them after people are done. But I I'd say at least half of the units that are out there right now on rental are actually for competitors systems.

So, we're we're glad to help wherever we can. So if you said, hey, you know what? I just bought from Brandex.

Boy, I wish I would have talked to warmly yours. Don't worry. We're still gonna help you.

We're helping a lot of people right now who have, problems with their competitors that they can't get any help with. So here to help everybody is is a moral of the story. So Absolutely.

And I'm not seeing any questions pop up.

If there are any questions, feel free to type them, while we do a little bit of housekeeping, we will have our next webinar on February eighth again Thursday at one o'clock central time, and we're gonna be talking about everything you need to know about heating the floor in a bathroom. So be sure to join us for that.

We do also offer daily trainings right here on Zoom, often hosted by me or by Scott. So these are usually shorter anywhere from ten to fifteen minutes, so feel free to pop in and learn a little bit more.

For January, we are offering twenty twenty five percent off of Select towel warmer. So be sure to check out our website for more information on that promotion.

And once this is over, we're going to email you a, a short survey just asking for some, about your experience during the webinar. If you have any comments, suggestions, we would love hear it and make sure that we are talking about what you want to hear about.

Last but not least, of course reach out with any questions, concerns. If you're looking at getting a project started and you just wanna chat about it, reach out give us a call, shoot us an email, visit our website, we would be more than happy to assist.

Well, And I believe that is all we have. So thank you so much, Scott, for all of that phenomenal information. Thank you everybody for joining us. As always, until next time, stay warm. And be radiant. Thanks everybody.