Unfortunately there's no set answer for this because it depends on many factors such as the diameter of the pipes, the installation density of the heating cables, the outdoor temperature, the installation of thermal insulation sleeves, etc.
There are too many variables to provide an accurate answer. Even though this product is designed to keep pipes from freezing, it is not designed to thaw pipes. If your pipe has frozen with the heat tape installed and energized, please check the placement of the built-in thermostat and verify that the insulation has been properly installed and waterproofed.
Self-regulating heating cables, like PRO-Tect: Pipe Freeze Protection cables, use a conductive polymer core, which continually adjusts its heat output.
This is why this type of cable, unlike some heat tapes, won’t burn out if it is wrapped closely together, overlapped, or over-insulated. This also means lower operating costs and increased energy efficiency.
The amount of cable needed depends on the size and type of pipe, and on the lowest expected temperature. Once you know the type of pipe (metal or plastic), pipe diameter, length of pipe, and the minimum expected temperature, you can use this form to request a quote. Just follow the instructions on the form to get it back to us.
No, the FPT 130 provides a summary alarm via a dry contact relay. This relay is energized whenever the unit is powered. So, with power off the NC contact is closed, and the NO contact is open. When the unit is powered these are in the opposite state. A fault will de-energize the alarm relay and close the NC contact. This allows for a default, power loss alarm without power.
Yes, insulation is highly recommended for use with a pipe freeze protection system for the following reasons:
· It helps cut down on heat loss from the heated water pipe.
· Properly installed insulation helps keep the cable in good contact with the water pipe so that maximum surface area contact is achieved.
· While the cable is wet location approved, weatherproofed insulation adds an extra layer of protection. Ideally, the insulation will be nonflammable and waterproofed.
Yes, there is a maximum cable length that can be supported. However, this maximum length depends on the cable type (in terms of wattage per linear foot), the cable's voltage, and the ambient starting temperature. You can find out more by referring to the Maximum Length vs. Circuit Breaker Size chart found in the manual.
WarmlyYours offers a conversion kit (SR-PLUG-KIT) to enable a plug-in requirement. This kit includes ground fault equipment protection (GFEP). The receptacle must be 120V, grounded, and approved for wet locations if located outside. The self regulating cable must not exceed 140‘ in length.
No. Only install pipe heat (heat trace cable) in accessible locations. Do not install this self regulating cable in walls or any place where the cable is hidden. Do not run it through walls, ceilings, or floors. The cable must be installed 10“ away from combustible surfaces, such as wood, and it should not be embedded in insulation or roofing material.
- After the first five seconds the unit will go into Manual Mode, energizing the heater cable if it is not all ready energized.
– After the second five seconds the unit will enter the LOW TEMP blue LED edit mode. This is indicated by the blue LED flashing rapidly. Release the button at this point. (The unit will exit Manual Mode.).
Note: The blue LED may flash for a couple of seconds after releasing the red TEST/RESET pushbutton.
– If the blue LED remains on the LOW TEMP Alarm is currently enabled.
– If the blue LED goes off the LOW TEMP Alarm is currently disabled.
– To keep the setting as it is wait five seconds and the unit will resume normal operation.
– To change this setting press the red TEST/RESET pushbutton within five seconds. The new status of this setting will show for three seconds before the unit resumes normal operation.
Note: The blue LED will flash rapidly before exiting the LOW TEMP blue LED editing mode and resuming normal operation.
– Blinking indicates a calibration error.
– Blinking asymmetric (1/2 sec off × 1–1/2 sec on) : Low Current Alarm, heater relay closed.
– Blinking asymmetric (1/2 sec on × 1–1/2 sec off) : Low Current Alarm, heater relay open.
– Blinking fast : Stuck relay.
– Blinking indicates sensor fault.
– Blinking fast indicates High Temperature alarm.
– Blinking indicates a GFEP circuit failure (this light will also blink while system is performing a self–test).